Replacing an Accord Wheel Bearing

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Ok, here it is finally. A few of you have requested this procedure so here it is. As I said in the video I normally use a different method of removing the hub from the bearing assembly by using a slide hammer. I also normally use a press to reinstall the hub into the new bearing instead of hitting it with a hammer. Life is not perfect and we sometimes have to improvise as I did here. I know a few of you will ask about the size fasteners that I used to hammer the bearing out, I used hardened (8.8) 10×1.25 bolts to do the job. I also promised links to the other videos that relate to this one so here they are. “Oops, Axle Ball Joint Replacement” www.youtube.com and also “How to Replace Honda Captive Rotors” www.youtube.com As always you can visit me at EricTheCarGuy.com ericthecarguy.com Thanks again to all that have subscribed and left such great comments on my videos and my channel, you are the best, I mean it. You know the lineStay dirty ETCG Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this

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25 Comments on “Replacing an Accord Wheel Bearing”

  • Paulpunkrocks
    11 February, 2012, 10:54

    Hey Eric, I just recently subscribed to your channel. I was wondering what your opinion was on slotted/drilled rotors. I don’t know why but it feels like my rotors are always warped even if I replace them, they still pulsate the car in braking at high speeds. Do you think it’s the rotors my mechanics using? It’s some cheapo rotor from china.

  • jpyb
    11 February, 2012, 11:17

    Thanks a lot man i always wanted to do this my self and save alot of money rebuilding my 1990 Honda Accord and you helped me in the past and i would like to thank you for that. will come back for more since this is a big project of mine.

  • antiklutz79
    11 February, 2012, 12:04

    2 questions does that work the same way with a 99 honda accord. also where could i find the special tool XD45???

  • BigBooBooDaddy
    11 February, 2012, 12:19

    Great video. I was gonna try and do this myself but your video saved me a lot of headache. Taking it to my mechanic. There’s a reason they charge $225/side for this repair. Keep up the good work and keep the videos coming.

  • lilbromarky1
    11 February, 2012, 12:40

    Had a 2002 Honda Civic hub replacement in which I ended up with the inside bearing race still on the hub and used the same grinder/chisel method shown here. It works. Thanks Eric.

  • LetsGetMoneyEnt
    11 February, 2012, 13:32

    thank you sir i was goin to try it this way but wasnt sure it would work now i know it will. .

  • Darren87aero
    11 February, 2012, 13:55

    @EricTheCarGuy oh yea btw, I subscribed

  • Darren87aero
    11 February, 2012, 14:04

    thanks Eric! The Honda front end Is a little trickier than the Ole American muscle im use to working on, your video’s made my day of the lady 94 accord front end rebuild much much easier than i had originally anticipated especially that damn wheel bearing hub assembly! I used a vice and a piece of 1×1 wood for the bearing side to press it on to the hub assembly the majority of the way and then hammered it down the remaining length of the hub. A little different, but it worked, YOU THE MAN!

  • swankyswigs21
    11 February, 2012, 14:59

    and of course i meant just by bringing in the knuckle with the bearing/hub assembly, not the whole car. . .

  • swankyswigs21
    11 February, 2012, 15:05

    Eric, with the help of this video, I was able to replace both front wheel bearings on my 98 accord 6 cyl. although i must say, the local honda shop was more than happy to use their machine to press out old bearing and push in new for 50 bucks, which I felt was worth it for the saving of hassle and stress. Total job cost = 80 bucks. Done. Thanks!!!

  • EricTheCarGuy
    11 February, 2012, 15:24

    @notrigger20 I’m glad the video helped you, thanks for the comment.

  • notrigger20
    11 February, 2012, 15:28

    Thanks for the video. Great job. I used this info and translated it into replacing my wheel bearing on an ‘03 Acura 3. 2TL type-S. Very useful information. WIll be back to your channel. . . hopefully not too soon!

  • marcinhosouzinho
    11 February, 2012, 15:56

    great job ,you are the best.

  • EricTheCarGuy
    11 February, 2012, 16:11

    @gta14atl Honestly I don’t remember but if I had it in my hand I would. I usually look at it when I take it of to check the orientation but most times I do it like in this video. There really is no way to remove it to flip it around without destroying it though.

  • gta14atl
    11 February, 2012, 16:19

    ERIC, great video!! I had my shop press in a front wheel bearing for my ‘97 Honda Prelude. It was a Honda OEM bearing with the black seal on one side. They installed it with the black seal on the inside towards the axle, I thought the black seal should go on the outside towards the hub. What do you think and does it matter enough that I should have them redo it? I know you said it’s important for the accord in this video (not pressed in) but is it also important for the Prelude (pressed in)?

  • EricTheCarGuy
    11 February, 2012, 16:40

    @Romulan112 Good question the issue is this, the bigger the hammer the less effort required but it makes it harder to use and get into tight places, the smaller one doesn’t have that problem but it will be easier to get into tight places. Get both. :)

  • john13200242
    11 February, 2012, 16:48

    @TimmyAuss Timmy I love you long time!

  • shaxs
    11 February, 2012, 16:48

    @EricTheCarGuy Yeah so I learned. I got quotes to have it pressed in and out and it was $100+. Instead a mobile mechanic is coming out and doing it at my house for $70 (I bought a new bearing during black Friday coupon at Advanced Auto for $26). Hes going to come take things apart, take the hub back to his shop and press out and in and then put ti all back together for a total of $96 after parts. Still a much better deal than $488! If I had my own press I would have done this myself but I dont.

  • Romulan112
    11 February, 2012, 16:57

    ERIC. i have a question, on pulling cv joints. I have an attachment , like a big U that hooks to a slide hammer to make a straight pull.  trouble is, my slide hammer was stolen. if I buy another to replace it, should I buy a 5 lb hammer or 7 lb hammer. I would be using it mainly to pull axles and cv joints in the future. ? any help???

  • EricTheCarGuy
    11 February, 2012, 17:52

    @shaxs It’s not the same, the Civic bearings are pressed in and you normally need a press to get them in and out but the other parts of the process are similar such as removing the race from the hub.

  • averrose23
    11 February, 2012, 18:05

    @EricTheCarGuy We had to remove the whole sensor and wiring to safely bang out the bearing manually. . thanks for your help! Right side is getting done this weekend!

  • shaxs
    11 February, 2012, 19:00

    I have a 2003 Honda Civic. I assume this should be roughly the same idea right? Honda wants $488 (plus I already paid $66 to diagnose) to fix it.  I can get a bearing at Auto Zone for $36.

  • shaxs
    11 February, 2012, 19:36

    I have a 2003 Honda Civic. I assume this should be roughly the same idea right? Honda wants $488 (plus I already paid $66 to diagnose) to fix it. I can get a bearing at Auto Zone for $36.

  • EricTheCarGuy
    11 February, 2012, 19:57

    @averrose23 There should be only one fastener holding the sensor in, a little penetrating oil should help loosen it up.

  • averrose23
    11 February, 2012, 20:38

    I have a 1998 accord (4 cyl) and while trying to get the wheel bearing out, we had the ABS sensor in the way. Anybody know how to get around it? It’s the ony obstacle and nobody seems to have a clue.

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